loosen the front limiter straps and tighten the rear. I can barley keep my skis down now. And clutching would help also... blue/almond or epi red secondary and 10-60 polaris weights
loosen the front limiter straps and tighten the rear. I can barley keep my skis down now. And clutching would help also... blue/almond or epi red secondary and 10-60 polaris weights
i didnt notice anything. I actually like how it drives and handles. try it and if you dont like it you can always tighten them back up, it only takes about 15 minutes. Ive heard of some people who take them off completely but i myself wouldnt try it. happy trails
With suspension tuning, there will always be tradeoffs.
You can also turn your RRSS to low, move them to the rear hole, or take them out completely. But then this will make your suspension ride uncoupled and will be very soft. You can also turn your torsion spring preload to low, but this will also make the suspension soft.
Like you say, you have to make decisions. Your best bet is to make small changes, and only one change at a time so you know how the change affects the performance of the suspension. You will have to do lots of test riding until you find something that suits you.
Sit back, push the throttle wide open. If that doesn't work, position the sled before a small bump and take off at full throttle, that'll get the front end way up (riding the rear bumper) and the power of the motor will keep it up.
The rear scissors blocks in the farthest setting from the rear torque arm. Some guys remove them to carry the skis, but you really lose bite in the front. Rear springs in the softest setting, tighten the coil spring on the front torque arm, lengthen the limiter strap in the front, are the things you can do. Whatever you decide, it will affect handling in the corners. Expect the sled to lift the inside ski on the turns and push in in the corners if you set up for more ski lift. The following set-up worked well for the 98 XC 6 I sold last season.
178 mains down to -10F
38 pilots
air screw 1.0 adjust as needed
stock needle #3 position
6.0 slides from a 700
almond/gold primary spring
10-60 weights
HSP 36s helix
HSP orange #3
22/40 gears
SLP Power Packs
SLP Boost Bottle
V-Force II reeds.
They all helped my sled. You will get various opinions on the boost bottle. If you do a boost botlle, get a plastic one. One more thing, if you do long WOT runs (1 mile +) run larger main jets or you will burn it down. (185s @ sea level)
The way my sled is setup if I took the blocks out it would probably go over on me, I had to move them back into the stock position as I had them in the down back position and had to launch with my onions on the gas cap and the damn thing was still standing near straight up.
in that pic mine was still set up for ice, it just grabbed super hard and there was a nice solid base. in all honesty i wasnt expecting a bumper shot lol
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