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Discussion Starter #1
why spend the extra on an oil that is purely man made?? Such as when changing the chain case fluid, why does it have to be synthetic. Seems all the old sleds ran 80w-90, no problems? At over 8 bucks a quart, compared to 80-90 at 3?? Ive run polaris blue in everything from polaris, to arctic cat, to chain saw, and weed whacker.
 

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If I didn't have a VES I wouldn't be using a synthetic oil. I use 80w-90 in my chain case with no problems. I used castrol in my old XLT for 8600 miles and my father has around 18,000km on his 2000 Yamaha Venture 700 only using Tech 2000 injector oil.No problems with either of those.

I only use synthetic because I need it for the valves.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
then that i can understand, and also for the high performance machines, possibly, but name brand seems all you pay for. If Im wrong, I have no problem accepting it, I just want to know what the "great" overall reason for synthetic is in a two stroke. It seems to me a bunch of hype. Ive run synthetic in my Harley, for longevity, and heat dispersement, but a snowmobile?? Hard to justify the extra $$$$$
 

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Well I've seen cyls and pistons from my 1st Ultra with 10k miles running Injex. Then I have seen pistons and cyls from my current Ultra with 7800 miles and running Amsoil Interceptor. Flawless with the Amsoil! You get what you pay for, I will run nothing but the best in my stuff!
 

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Originally posted by pinkpower33
[br]then that i can understand, and also for the high performance machines, possibly, but name brand seems all you pay for. If Im wrong, I have no problem accepting it, I just want to know what the "great" overall reason for synthetic is in a two stroke. It seems to me a bunch of hype. Ive run synthetic in my Harley, for longevity, and heat dispersement, but a snowmobile?? Hard to justify the extra $$$$$
I use syn for the same reasons you do on your harley and because it keeps my valves cleaner. On my non ves machines is use a syn-dino blend because polaris does not offer the straight dino any more. I buy the polaris blend for $20 a gallon.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok, I see the synthetic difference for the 2 stroke, so why have to run in the chain case then. The polaris leaks just a lil, I think its the O ring rotting, i just wonder what would happen running 80w 90 gear lube in it instead of the polaris synthetic.
 

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I have seeen people run 80-120 to atf with no problems.

I talked toa guy over at hcs, who owns his own shop and he told me that they were running dino chain case oil and the chains would lock up after a few 100 miles. They then went to syn and had no issues. I guess the syn absorbed more of the heat than the dino.

I just changed 3 of my sleds to amsoil. I have checked it all year and have no leaks so far.

The dealer I by my stuff from races and said when polaris first when syn that it would leak past the gasket. He told me not to use it.
 

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you can run mineral oil, just clean your valves more often,put around 4000 miles LAST YEAR ON SHELL BLUE , 9000 MILES ON THE MOTOR , PISTONS were only .002 over max wear.

if synthetic is so good,everyone would run it in there vehicles, but MOST dont.
its also said , synthetic has very poor rust inhibitors when sitting ,compared to mineral.

chaincase oil, what evers on the shelf at the time ,gear oil, trans oil, it all works.
 

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Originally posted by Xc Special
[br]you can run mineral oil, just clean your valves more often,put around 4000 miles LAST YEAR ON SHELL BLUE , 9000 MILES ON THE MOTOR , PISTONS were only .002 over max wear.

if synthetic is so good,everyone would run it in there vehicles, but MOST dont.
its also said , synthetic has very poor rust inhibitors when sitting ,compared to mineral.

chaincase oil, what evers on the shelf at the time ,gear oil, trans oil, it all works.
Some syns have rust inhibitors in it. The early versions don't. I beleive klotz nad the high end amsoil do.
 

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Actually I think one of the reasons people didn't like the amsoil race oil is because it didn't have rust inhibitors. One more reason to stick to normal oil such as their interceptor. I'm not 100% sure on that fact though.
 

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^^^^True. I alway thought race oil never had rust preventors in it.
 

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Originally posted by Xc Special


if synthetic is so good,everyone would run it in there vehicles, but MOST dont.
It's because people are [red]cheap[/red], people think spending $40 for an DIY oil change is ridiculous.

I have no problem spending $28/gallon for oil for the sleds, this hobby is not cheap at all, never will be, so why be chinsy?
 

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CHINSY, HMMM,
cant imagine how the 289s .318s,283s,350s, went 2-300,000+ miles and never opened the engine before synthectic oil came along,
used up 7 gallons of cheap oil i bought last year on sale 9.99 cdn, in my o3 700.trouble free
theres cheap people,[ME] and others who dont believe every thing they read.
 

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I just use whatever the manufacturer recommends. Of all people they should know best. I'd personally save synthetic to an incredibly high-performance setup.
 

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Originally posted by Xc Special
[br]CHINSY, HMMM,
cant imagine how the 289s .318s,283s,350s, went 2-300,000+ miles and never opened the engine before synthectic oil came along,
used up 7 gallons of cheap oil i bought last year on sale 9.99 cdn, in my o3 700.trouble free
theres cheap people,[ME] and others who dont believe every thing they read.
Your comparing apples to oranges in comparing a four-stroke to a two-stroke. A synthetic is always going to protect better than dino. The molecules of the synthetic are all the same size and generally all the same shape. This provides a excellent lubrication as compared to dino oils. Don't get me wrong dinos still have their places, but if you rebuild a motor you are foolish not to run something at least a 50/50 blend.
 

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Originally posted by Triple650Indy
[br]
Originally posted by Xc Special
[br]CHINSY, HMMM,
cant imagine how the 289s .318s,283s,350s, went 2-300,000+ miles and never opened the engine before synthectic oil came along,
used up 7 gallons of cheap oil i bought last year on sale 9.99 cdn, in my o3 700.trouble free
theres cheap people,[ME] and others who dont believe every thing they read.
Your comparing apples to oranges in comparing a four-stroke to a two-stroke. A synthetic is always going to protect better than dino. The molecules of the synthetic are all the same size and generally all the same shape. This provides a excellent lubrication as compared to dino oils. Don't get me wrong dinos still have their places, but if you rebuild a motor you are foolish not to run something at least a 50/50 blend.
Triple650Indy is right. The molecules are also smaller then an average size molecule of conventional oil. Thus you might see a leak where there wasnt one before you switched to synthetic oil, like in a chaincase, or a valve cover on a car.
Metal is porous and syn oils do a better job of filling up these pores and provide a much slicker surface=less friction=more power and less heat. Dont forget friction is parasitic drag.
I switched all the oils in my tacoma to synthetic and saw an increase of almost 3mpg. Not to mention you can run longer on an oil chance. So you could actually save $ by running synthetic in a few applications. Not to mention going longer before an engine rebuild.
Amsoil now offers a 2 stroke oil that you can mix 100:1, where you would previously have run 50:1, for small engines. Weed wackers, chainsaws, etc.... I currently have a chainsaw that I have been running 100:1 for several tanks of gas now (as a guinea pig) and it still runs great. I recently became an Amsoil dealer and am just testing my product, I had to see it for myself.
 

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one thing to look at too is that synthetic oil doesnt get all gummy in really cold weather like normal oil does.ever started your car/truck in super cold weather and it started really slow, and the engine made noises? well normal oil will get thicker in cold weather. i run sythetic oil in ALL of my stuff engines trannys rear ends
 

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I have mentioned this before,on here and other places. Legend Dominator ZX-2rs has got to be one of if not the best 2 cycle "oil" out there. Formerly known as "Produmax". Legend Performance bought the rights and further refined the mix to get an absolutely top shelf product. I tested five gallons of the latest blend, last winter for Legend Performance owner Mark Zaic. To test an almost unproven product on my three Edges was almost pure insanity! I did it though because I have known Mark to be a straight shooter. I was impressed after spending five years running ams oil and oem Polaris stuff.My sleds certainly responded (enough to notice plainly) that the product burned cleaner, less smoke,almost no odor and tended to keep my ex. valves in good enough shape so that they did not stick or carbon up. They just came out kinda gooey and were back in the cylinders in 20 minutes flat!, my plugs were easier to read and there was not one hint of a carbon deposit anyplace. One of my rides last year was a box new 600 ves. It has never been run on anything but Legend. We tore it down in March of this year with 1840 miles for a look. We was Mark Zaic and me. We found things to be in tip top shape. No blow by or deposits or cold seize or four corner sezures. Total sweetness. The benefits of the Dominator oil are then benefits of fossil base stock (petro) and highly refined synthetic stocks. This stuff absolutely rocks. Check out the Legend website. Definately not snake oil.
 

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I alway run just plain motor oil 10-30 in the chain case, it alot lighter and I've never had an issue.
 

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Synthetic oil withstands higher temperatures, no impurities, lower oil consumption, better lubrication, better viscosity index, and are better at low temperatures. They claim you have to change oil less, change filters the same, but in reality not the brightest thing to follow. It costs more and doesn't run properly.

Why it would be in a chaincase, better lubrication and viscosity index.
 
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