On a 500cc sled all your going to notice with reeds is a smoother bottom end and thats about it. I had them in my 2000 cat 500 and they didnt do a whole lot. i would go with the clutching before reeds.
I have the same sled, but if you don't have valves that's a straight XC, w/o the SP.
Engine tweeks do very little on our machines, have heard clutching is a good upgrade though. I looked at an EPI kit on the weekend, and decided against it, 275.00 cdn is pretty rich, and if it didn't make a world of difference I'd kick'n myself for dropping that kind of cash.
Traction is always a good upgrade for any sled, studs if you ride lakes and icy trails, 1.25" paddle track if you get off into it.
I personally did the 1.25...I very highly recomend one of those, nice hook-up, better top-end in the loose stuff.
It is an SP! The casting is there for the valves but the gas tank, shocks, seat, and tailight are different from the XC 500. If the reeds will help on the bottom, that is what I am looking for. It seems to be fat. It is already studded (96). I bought the Goodwin Clutch kit as a closeout for $129 US. Kit includes both springs, weights, and progressive helix.
500Fastenuf, the VES 500 came out in '00! The '99 500 xc SP had upgraded fox shocks and that was about it.
I raced this sled in '99. I had about $2000 + worth off after market items added to increase HP and lighten it up. (2000 bucks don't go to far)
This little sled ROCKS with the SLP pipe and can! It gains like 8 hp and looses 13 pounds!! The SLP for pipe for the '00 is a better pipe because it comes with a heat shield, the pipe '99 didn't, and the can is the same. (the '00 SLP pipe is 1 pound heavier)
Hot Seat makes a pretty good clutch set up (tell them the engine mods and how you ride)
Gearing mad NO difference! (acceration/mid range/top end all very close to stock) top speed was 103-105 on speedo no matter what gears we tried.(4 different ratios)
There was a spot between 25 & 35 MPH we had a real hard time tuning out. sled would launch good but when it hit about 25mph the hotshot we got was all but over come by my buddies sleds (no matter what the sled was) then would rocket to about 75mph once getting past 30-35mph.
As stated before in other posts V-force reeds were a waste of $250 on this sled. The stock reeds flow design was equal to, if not better.
Bottem line; Pipe, can, clutch, tempaflow, light weight seat, a light weight cowling, and studs (if legal) is where you need to spend money. (stock seat tank combo is like 28 pounds, stock cowling is like 24 pounds)
FYI I still ride that sled with 4000+ miles on it, lots of parts have been 'renewed' but NOTHING done to the engine other then adding a tempaflow before I EVER started it.
You say it's fat and you want to clean up the low end. Have you done any jetting yet? Poos are all way rich from the factory. Try dropping your mains one or even two sizes. You could lower the needle too. Do one thing at a time and check piston wash and plug color before you go rippin dpwn the trail. Jets are cheap and easy to install. I would still recommend a clutch kit. New springs alone can wake things up sometimes, depends on how old they are and how many miles are on them.
Your right on there Offshore, carb tuning is really the key to any sled.
My plugs always look nice and brown with the stock 250's (at least think that's what's in there), although I do raise and lower the needles almost every ride, never seems to be the same temp from one ride to the next. If I don't it is really boggy in the bottom and mid-range, but it has excellent snap when the carbs are set right.
mm...the cahiscase whine is a little anyoing I agree, but it's only during deceleration, and I try to limit that..
I tightened up my chain, and I did get better, but still seems to sing when slowing down from above 50 mph.
Have heard that synthetic chain oil can help as well, but haven't tried it myself.
Thanks for the info 500FasEnuf! I already run the Amsoil in the case and it didn't seem to help the noise.
As far as jetting, I had a 95 xcr 440 special that was a tempermental S.O.B. and I spent a lot of time to get the right carb combination to run at -20 F or 30 F without having to rejet or mess with it. It didn't run good at the warm temps but at least it stopped fouling plugs. Is this 500 going to give me fits like the 440?
hmm... 370 were stock main jets on the '99 500xc. (POL rec. for -20 F @ < 1500 ft) After installing pipe, can, reeds, tempaflow, for jets I have 410 in the PTO and 390 in the mag side. It's jetted correctly for temps below -20 F to +35 F. Piston wash shows signs of being fat during 65+ F grass drags. Most ALL of my riding is below 3000ft and between -20 to +35. If using the tempaflow a 16th of a turn adjustment is about the same as the next leaner jet size, but way quicker and cleaner.
those xc's are VERY forgiving when it comes to jet sizing.
Considering how short our riding season is...do you really want to be fiddling with clutch variables rather than riding?
You can spend lots of time and money getting the right components (like EPI and Goodwin do).
Madcow has lots of clutch info for ya, and is always a big help.
But....I went and spent the extra bucks and got an EPI kit, now I just gas it up and go.
My kit came with springs and the helix, and it made a big difference.
first you want your sled to go like a 600 or 700 here's what you do. go with a almond/ red primary sping from polaris and order a set of matched weights , don't let the dealer sell you three weights he needs to order a set of polaris matched weights they come sealed three in a pack. about 60 bucks. remove shims in the primary clutch tell a new belt engages at .012-.015 insted of the over .020 stock. the dealer can set it. set to motor stop to .010" , place a set of hard buttons on the secondary clutch and remove the two covers off it. v-force 3 reeds with the peddles set at the hardest settings. jet carbs to 380 for 20 plus degree's and 390 for colder than 20 degree's. remove the "Y" pipe and get two new gaskets. with a drimmel tool make sure you clean out the inside edge so both the block and pipe opening clears 100% . set the track as loss as it can run without the spocket jumping. also check the chain run it on the lose side. make sure the clutches are aligned 12 inch center to center, 1-1/4 belt deflection , 5/8" off set the secondary. and ride the belt 1/16-1/8 over the secondary. run supper unleaded with 1 ounce +104 per gallon of gas. set the track suspension rubber stopper to the most play , and set the sky pressure to to softest which is the black plastic holder all the way down to the bottom of the shock. make a set of 8.5mm-9mm spark plug wires, and index the spark plus so the open electrode end faces the intake side. clean the clutches often with automotive paint thinner and sand the clutch faces with 600 sand paper just enough to dull the shine but not the put scratches in it. never use snall than 600 grit. this will cost you under 400 bucks and will keep your 600 friends wondering what you did. now you want your 700 friends to make you life the cab and not see any motor work and keep up to them or even pass some email me [email protected]
but it deals with light weight jackshaft, light weight gears , lightweight drilled brake disk, braided brake line. dot 4 fuild, ceramic coated pipe,y and can, teffon slidders, NTN formula bearings, polaris racing oil, 6 inch carbide runners, all kinds of mechine work .
the sled will still look 100% stock and pass in the 500 stock class . lol
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