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74 belt is alittle wider and longer. It is the updated belt we are supposed to use.
 

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i took a look at my belts, both are the "074" belt...seem to be a bit of a harder compound as well?? If you are doing the VES valves spend the 15 bucks and get new gaskets and o rings...ZRX pilot i have my secondary set in hole #3 for the spring...I think that is the stock setting...
 

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Originally posted by CanadianXCR
[br]i took a look at my belts, both are the "074" belt...seem to be a bit of a harder compound as well?? If you are doing the VES valves spend the 15 bucks and get new gaskets and o rings...ZRX pilot i have my secondary set in hole #3 for the spring...I think that is the stock setting...
I don't think it is necessary to replace the o-rings all the time. I have never replaced mine. Neither of them have cracks in them. Just always replaced the gaskit every 2x I would clean the valves. I found the secondary setting in hole #3 is what works best with mine. Do you know what helix you are running moto-ski-man?
 

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http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=36498
hit this up for VES cleaning instructions.....i finally got off my butt and put it up..
 

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no problem...its too hard to try and explain..
 

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Thanks for the instructions on how to clean the power valves CanadianXCR, that is very helpful with the pictures. No XCR4403X, I am not sure what helix is in my machine as I have not taken the secondary apart yet. I was wondering what everyone is running for jets as well, mine has 330's in it and it seems to be pretty rich for the -5 degres celcius weather we have been having.
 

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with 330's it should not be rich at all for that temp. 330's might be a bit too small for that sled, i wouldn't drop lower than a 340. My sled with 350's in it starts to run rich right around -2 or -3. it really rips around -19 or -20. Any colder and I will have to go up one size to be safe.
 

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Stock was 360. I am runnig 350.
 

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Ok thanks for the help everyone, as soon as I can get my machine into the garage I am going to take the carbs apart and have a look. I have almost had it with this machine though, it runs good with fresh plugs in it but then after a couple minutes it just starts to load up and run on one cylinder, leaving one of the plugs wet. I have no clue what could be causing this but am really starting to get frustrated since sometimes it will run for a a good 20 ride to the park and back without having a problem, which also confuses me.
 

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choke stuck? one side perhaps?
 

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I took my first good look at the sled today since I had some spare time and took the air box off finding that the one carb had never been tightened when the old owner set up the carbs i guess. I tightened that up, put in some new plugs, and it seems to be running good now (hopefully). Now I am just trying to figure out how to get the air box back in since it is giving me a hard time trying to get the carb to air box boots on properly. Any tricks to doing this?
 

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lots of patience and a little lube on rubbers. I found it goes on better when warm. Bring it in house for a hour or so.
 

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haha yess...you need practice. I was the same way. I find using a little force and lifing the carb up and trying to get the bottom of the carb to fit into palce first and use your finger while you push the airbox back down into position slowely to try and get the rubber to fit around the carb. What works for me but like xcr440 said..need patience for it
 

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haha..i just spent a good 20 minutes doing this tonite! I find that loosening both carbs from their grommets and putting them into the airbox first, then pushing them back into the grommets works best. Having the box warm does indeed help. Make sure you double check that the carbs are properly seated back into the grommets though if you try this aproach.
 

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Haha, at least I don't feel so stupid anymore! I got them in finally by getting the bottoms of the carbs in first then working my way around to the top...still not something I would want to do everyday though! Thanks for all the help and I am so relieved my machine is running like it should! Now I can start to play around with the jets and clutch without worrying about getting it to run right first!
 

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You boys have you sleds ready to go? Just wondering...I took my skid out and well..she needs some tlc. Most of my bearrings need replacing and my front shock needs to be re-done. Bushing is gone im it and the spring on it you can shake around so, thats getting fixed. Sliders were down to the line so they will be getting replaced aswell. Its to bad I never got around to it eariler cause there is spots where rust is forming on it so, next summer I will take it out and sand it and paint it. Thank the government and the use of salt on roads. Have pictures to post sometime of the process. We finnaly started to get some snowfall so..long as there is enough on the ground I will be eager to see how well the ripsaw will work.
PS..Moto-ski-man...what have you done to your sled since last. It work better? Does it reach 8200-8300rpms?
 

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I have not had the sled out for a ride since I fixed the carb problem, but Im hoping it should hit 8200 rpm since before when it hit 7300 about it didnt sound like it was running smoothly which would probably relate to the carbs for one getting more gas then the other, if that makes sence. I will let you all know what it reaches once i get it out again.
 

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If the boot wasn't tighened down you might of been getting more air in 1cly which would cause it to run lean which can cause a burnt piston. If the problem presists and you can still only turn about 7300rpm at you say maybe pull your VES out. I know when my sled would not 7000rpm it was cause my VES were pluged, and when I could hold it to the bar it would bog. Well get to the bottom of this problem
 
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