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I just picked 2-1997/98 XCR 440's. I am going through them. They have different carbs from one sled to the other? Could this be the difference from 97 to 98 and does anyone know what the manufacture date cutoff was for each year?

Thanks
 

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Need pics. Carbs shouldn't be much different.
 

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The carb body assemblies do show different part numbers between 97 and 98. I believe this is because the jetting and other guts inside the carbs are different between 97 & 98, even though the physical bodies IIRC are identical.
 

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I got one setup with recommendations I read on here today and it is running great. Cleaned carbs, and valves. I have found that both sets of carbs are 34mm, one set has a smaller “old” style intake and other is wider and newer. Thanks!
 

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There are a handful of minor & major differences between the 97 & 98. Hopefully the 97 you picked up has had the engine update done.
 

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Guys I have a 98 Red Rocket, bought it with 1500 miles on it which had a fresh rebuilt top end, broke in and ran great over the last 3yrs reaching good RPM's and 90+mph, machine now has 2800 miles on it and I rode last weekend and could only get 6500 rpm and maybe 60mph, I did not change any carb settings and it was 35* last weekend. When I brought it in the shop check the needles and the eclip was on the top setting, I did pull the spark plugs and the PTO has slight piston wash or small aluminum deposits on the plug. Possible a bad carb boot or what other things should I start to look at?
 

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Carbs clean? Fuel system in proper working condition? Aged/cracked intake boot? Poor fuel? Resistance causing excess load on motor?
Aluminum on the plug requires plug hole inspection, minimum. Likely more.
Let us know how the sled is set up. Condition of components is critical. A lot of guys with experience on the machines, just need good info to help.
 
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Fuel is good but I need to check carb boot, I will hopefully get time tomorrow night to report what I have for current specs. Thanks for the info so far
 

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Got the carbs tore apart and here are my current specs, they didn't seem too dirty but running them thru Ultrasonic Cleaner
1.5 Needle Valve
159 P4 Nozzle
350 Main
6DH7 #2 Position
4.5 Pilot
7/8 Turn on Air Screw
 

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That appears to be fine, those settings are even rich. You sucked air into the motor somewhere as RRXCR has indicated. Time for the ether spray test or a engine leak down test. Show us the plugs. Whats compression at?
 

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120 psi is low for this engine. Some testers vary quite a bit from my experience so you might want to try another first to verify your compression readings. Pull the manifold to get a better look at the pistons on the exhaust side.

Hopefully there isn’t too much damage.
 

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Thanks for the information guys, snow has all melted and yup good summer project, hope I caught things in time with little to no damage. I will post more info later on my findings.
 

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Anyone have a line on some good ol factory Polaris pistons? Im going to have my motor completly re-done by a shop most likely I hope @ Iantomasi even get it put on the Dyno to see where it peaks. I plan on brining my sled to Alberta and I would like to completly pull all the bolts of of it and re-do everything. But I want the motor to go somewhere where they can properly do all the checks. IIRC I think guys are dropping IQr pistons into these now?

Good to see things are still mobile on here with this thread.
 

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Anyone have a line on some good ol factory Polaris pistons? Im going to have my motor completly re-done by a shop most likely I hope @ Iantomasi even get it put on the Dyno to see where it peaks. I plan on brining my sled to Alberta and I would like to completly pull all the bolts of of it and re-do everything. But I want the motor to go somewhere where they can properly do all the checks. IIRC I think guys are dropping IQr pistons into these now?

Good to see things are still mobile on here with this thread.
This is correct, the 440 IQR pistons are still currently available directly from any Polaris dealer, and a perfect drop in if you have a 98 engine with the 20mm wrist pins.
 

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Hi everyone, new member here, just finished reading all 700+ pages of this thread! Tons of info here, glad I stumbled across it!
I just picked up my first red rocket, it’s a 1997 XCR 440, it’s seen better days as it has 5000+ miles. Luckily the chassis is very nice, and very straight, the foot wells aren’t bent up like the most of them. My plan with this one is a full ground up restore. I’ve restored 70’s TX/TXL/Starfire’s in the past and recent got interested in the newer stuff, so I figure this would be a worthy and rare sled (559 built) to give the full treatment. The motor is currently apart, waiting on some seals and gaskets to come in for it. It’s the original 97 bottom end & silver head cover, with the updated 065 cylinders and power valves. It still runs the 18mm wrist pin crank, and luckily I was able to track down a few sets of original 18mm Polaris pistons for it (including a set of the first L ring pistons, which will stay in the closet as a nostalgia piece LOL).
My hood & nose cone are from an Indy 500, that someone painted too dark of red years ago, and it now busted up in a few spots, so ill be using an NOS white domestic hood that we will be painting the correct red. I was lucky to find an original nose cone with the correct colour, and have a very good painter who is confident he will can mix up a batch with the correct metal flake and make it perfect. I’m excited to get it torn down and start the restoration which will include with all new OEM bolts & hardware with a professional paint job, NOS decals & as many NOS parts that I can find etc. My goal is to make it as close as I can to how it came from the factory. Currently just gathering the parts together to make assembly a quick & easy process without having to find parts along the way when that time comes.
Here’s some pics!
 

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