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Discussion Starter #1
This winter i put a rip saw track on my 94 xlt and I jusut put my rebuilt moter in. It is not pepy. I didn't change any of the clutching. How tight is that track suposed to be?
 

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I had the same problem searched forever until I realized one of my throttle blades came disconnected from the cable. Would idle on all three cylinders but soon as I gave it any gas only 2 of the three slides worked.
 

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i have a 93 model year book, so i dont think it has changed much, but you put a 10 lb weight roughly 16 inches ahead of the center of the rear idler wheel, then measure between the inside of the track clip, and the hi-fax. you should have 3/8 to 1/2 inch. keep in mind that the book says you should warm the track up first, ive always gone by this and have had no problems on my 93 xlt
 

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What kind of track did u have previously before the ripsaw? Also what lug length is the Rip saw, dont remember if u put it your original post?

As far as track tightness, its better to have er a little on loose side, obviously not sikpping or ratcheting on the drivers....
 

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With the 8" stock suspension, I would think the Ripsaw(which is a 1.25 lug) would be rubbing big time!!
 

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we put one on my buddys sled last year and had the same problem, it seems you need to have alot of motor to really turn that track. BTW, his is a 580.
 

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I have a 95 xlt extra 12 with a 1 inch hacksaw, and a 95 xcr 600 with a 1.25 inch ripsaw. In both cases, I had to remove the tunnel protectors. the fit fine, but the 1.25 has scary clearence. The 95 xcr, is complete stock other than a DG can, and it works very very well, I did find a lil bog on the xlt though, and that I fixed with an extra wind on the secondary. the book states warm track , 10 lbs, 3/8 to 1/2 for your sled. I run that on the xcr, without any problems.
 

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I didnt know that the 580 motor wasnt strong enough to pull that track, I am leaning towards perhaps it is hitting and rubbing.
 

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I am sure it will pul the track but you might need to drop a size on the clutch wieghts or put a littel stiffer spring in to get it back in the power band. Also the spring could be sacked on the primary. I run my tracks much looser than factory spec. like 1 inch free sag at the middle. The wedges modles you had to be concerned with front heat exchanger clerance so keep that in mnd. Also chck for lugs rubbing anywehre bogging it down.
 

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Yeah, I probably wasn't clear, it moves the sled, there is just a noticeable difference in the way the sled performs.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok i found out the problem but i don't know how to fix it. the left and middle cylinders are firing but the right spark plug is clean. nothing on it and it is not sparking. what to do.
 

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Well first try a new plug in that cylinder. If it's not the plug it's probably a bad plug wire or end cap.
 

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cool... I wish it was that easy with my buddys.
 
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