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xlt not performing???

1K views 14 replies 10 participants last post by  bwinkler 
#1 ·
This winter i put a rip saw track on my 94 xlt and I jusut put my rebuilt moter in. It is not pepy. I didn't change any of the clutching. How tight is that track suposed to be?
 
#4 ·
i have a 93 model year book, so i dont think it has changed much, but you put a 10 lb weight roughly 16 inches ahead of the center of the rear idler wheel, then measure between the inside of the track clip, and the hi-fax. you should have 3/8 to 1/2 inch. keep in mind that the book says you should warm the track up first, ive always gone by this and have had no problems on my 93 xlt
 
#5 ·
What kind of track did u have previously before the ripsaw? Also what lug length is the Rip saw, dont remember if u put it your original post?

As far as track tightness, its better to have er a little on loose side, obviously not sikpping or ratcheting on the drivers....
 
#7 ·
we put one on my buddys sled last year and had the same problem, it seems you need to have alot of motor to really turn that track. BTW, his is a 580.
 
#8 ·
I have a 95 xlt extra 12 with a 1 inch hacksaw, and a 95 xcr 600 with a 1.25 inch ripsaw. In both cases, I had to remove the tunnel protectors. the fit fine, but the 1.25 has scary clearence. The 95 xcr, is complete stock other than a DG can, and it works very very well, I did find a lil bog on the xlt though, and that I fixed with an extra wind on the secondary. the book states warm track , 10 lbs, 3/8 to 1/2 for your sled. I run that on the xcr, without any problems.
 
#10 ·
I am sure it will pul the track but you might need to drop a size on the clutch wieghts or put a littel stiffer spring in to get it back in the power band. Also the spring could be sacked on the primary. I run my tracks much looser than factory spec. like 1 inch free sag at the middle. The wedges modles you had to be concerned with front heat exchanger clerance so keep that in mnd. Also chck for lugs rubbing anywehre bogging it down.
 
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