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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, i am new to snowmobiling. I pick up a used Yamaha 1996 vmax 600xt sled last year. It is pretty good I think. My first sled so really nothing to compare it too. I hear you can get these sleds going pretty good. On initial take off I can't spin the track or lift a ski off the ground or anything like that. It seems like when I punch the throttle it takes off and then all of a sudden boom, I am gone. It runs good and is fast but I want that fast initial take-off. Is this a clutching question then? What do I do? I have a studded track if that makes any difference?
 

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i have a 94 vmax 600 and i'm only 150 pounds and if i crack the throttle on mine the track spins like crazy and the skis come up a little bit. but thats only on hard snow. i just put a new stock helix in it last year if that makes a diff. but i know in 1995 they changes the clutch so yours is def diff. mine will do 100mph in perfect conditions if thas a help


Jason Everill
 

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It could probably use some clutch work, but you could also clean the carbs, and make sure that they are syncronised.... I take it that you are not that mechanically inclined... You could just take it to your dealer, or shop and ask them to check it out....

GO HARD, OR GO HOME - IF YOU COME TO A FORK IN THE ROAD...TAKE IT
 

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I am not really mechanically inclined but can do a bunch of stuff actually on a car and stuff like that. I am just scared of screwing something up! Besides, i called my dealer and they want $100 to clean both my carbs and I know I can do it myself for like $5 and my time! I just don't know how to do it. Is synchronizing the carbs hard to do? If you take them off to clean do you have to resynchronize the carbs and cables and stuff like that or just put it back together???
 

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Sledhead...That was a stupid thing to say...telling someone with a question that they are not mechanically inclined....he was here to find out how to fix a problem...alot of people dont know whats wrong with there sleds thats why they come here. If you cant help him out on how to fix it at least dont put him down. Just cause someone cant figure out the problem dosent mean they cant fix it without some help.
 

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If you don't touch the idle or air screws, then you shouldn't need to re-syncronize. Of course this is assuming they were already in sync. Cleaning carbs to someone that has never done it before, can be a little scarey.

In reality though, its no big deal. Just do one at a time, and keep track of where the individual components came from, and reinstall everything in the reverse order. Be sure to pull ALL the jets, and clean them well. Use a good solvent (carb cleaner) then wash them all in hot soapy water and dry completely. In some sleds there are small washers associated with the top of the jet needle (the piece that looks like a sewing needle). When you take this apart be sure to observe where they came from, so you can reinstall them properly.

Good luck, and if you have any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.



1997 XLT SP 600
"Engage the Mechanism"
 

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Guys just to add something here, you will also want to check your drive belt to make sure its not worn out. A worn belt will rob you of low end power. Also the carbs arent that difficult to clean/rebuild at all. the only thing i would suggest is to count the EXACT number of turs for each screw, the air and idle. All Air screws will probably be set at 1 and 1/2 turns open and the idle screws should be close to one another, but can vary slightly. If you keep track of the number of turns on each screw, you shouldnt have to worry about re-synchronizing the carbs. The only way you can mess this up is to move the cable adjuster nut on the top of each carb. So if you leave these alone you shouldnt have to worry about the sync. Other than that, i guess i would probably change the inlet needles and seats if if has never been done before. I know they are kinda expensive (between $15-20 each), but it will most likely save headaches later on. Also make sure your floats move freely. Other than that make sure you clean all passages and jets in the carbs with carb cleaner (compressed air also helps on stubborn plugged jets). Re-install the carbs, pull the engine over a few times to get some gas back in the float bowls and she should fire right up. Hope this helps.

Polaris is my way out - Other people just use a door.
 

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I agree with T.o.U dont even bother trying to clean the carbs unless you have access to compressed air. it just dosnt work well. And not to start a fight... but I think its perfectly fine to suggest to someone that maybe a dealer or a sled mechanic is the best way to go if you dont know what you are doing. remember an incorrectly set up carb can quickly cause a melt down and we all know how fun that is.
 

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Yah I have a 97 Vmax 600 twin and I right now have a problem with a slow take off and a bad top end, only goes like 50 or 55 a top end so what do you guys think is the problem. thanks for your time and hope you guys can help me out.

Justin Jarmus
 

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I will let you know what I do with mine Hugerotts4u. Next weekend I am taking it somewhere to have it looked over and they said I can also watch and learn. Sweet! I know I could do all this myself if I just had someone show me once how to do it. I didn't take any offense to the comment of taking it in to a dealer to look at. I just wish I could do it myself and save money, besides, I like working on things, it just seems that the manufacturer always seems to have spare parts in there when I am done with it! ha ha ha

I have been basically thinking it is the clutching with my sled. I will post again!
 

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First thing, Get a manual for your sled ,then check the basics,as mentioned,a worn belt,to much belt side cleareance,to much deflection.clutchs need to be clean.broken engine mounts.clutch center to center,being a used sled you don,t know whats been done to it.,all this costs next to nothing,just time and good experience
 

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i guys i have a 90 exciter 570 L/C and it lifts the skis pretty easy on hard pack take off it is studded tho decent back up sled lol i use a longer nail to check the syc of my carbs that will give u an idea if they are both opening at the exact same time take the air box off set the nails in the carbs be carefull open the throttle a little and see if they both drop at the same time that might help a little
 

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I had a 94 Vmax 600 LE
It was a dog out of the box.
Mine had a rack set up for syncronizing the carbs. Don't know what they did in '96.
I also had to install a mid-range throttle jet kit,
direct oil injection, pipes, (I'm not recommending them, see post elsewhere this site.) Jets size. Changed primary clutch to Comet 108XP, 52 oz. weights. ( I think.) Multi-angle helix, both clutch springs, added some shims for good measure, EGT to keep an eye on oven temperatures. stretched the front limiter straps. 144 Saber Wart-Hoggs. 220 lbs of body mass.
After we installed all this (and some more that I can't remember.) I spent lot's of time with my wrench expert buddy and fine-tuned everything.
It really hooked up well and accellerated all the way to the top. It was no problem to lift the skis and transfer weight to gain maximum traction.
However, having said all this, I replaced this sled with a stock '98 MXZ 500 that I'm sure would have no problem keeping up with that Yamy after spending $3,500 Cdn. on it. And the Skidoo has 10 inches of awesome suspension under it.
If your looking for performance advice or parts, get in touch with Bender Racing.
I hope this helps you decide.

Jeff

RIDE SAFE - RIDE SOBER
 

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Hey I was having a clutch problem and I never had it running to its fullest topend yet , what should I be looking to hit as an MPH. I have a 97 Vmax XTC 600

Justin Jarmus
 

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Hey if you want low end power you need to change the gear, thats what I just did and I can tell a differnce.The gear that is stock in it is 23 and if you change it to a 21 tooth, when you do this you will lose some topend mph but if you want to rip your arms off change it and do a little clutch work there is a good deal from http://www.maxxperf.com also if you need more power at low end they have a lower cut headgasket for higher compression. The reason they do that is cause in 96 tru 99 they undertuned there engine so they last. I hope this helps you and if you have questions just write.

Justin Jarmus
 
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