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Discussion Starter #1
Have anyone discovered why you have to unplug the kill switch so it don't bog out? I am sure there must be something simple causing this.I am wondering if it is related to the trottle because if the trottle sticks or freezes then the sled should cut of and mine won't. I would like to know the answer because unpluging the kill switch is not very safe.
 

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This is a common problem, basically there is a saftey feature that is messed up. On the carbs\throttle body there are sensors that need to match up with your throttle position. If your throttle is not wide open but the carbs see that they are wide open the engine will kill itself.

You can adjust the sensors on the carbs or replace the throttle block.
 

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Originally posted by thehawk789
[br]cut the center wire under the handle bar pad... on the kill switch circuit
I think he is trying to figure out away to avoid the bogging without having to rid the sled of a kill switch.

Anywho, check for wires on your throttle body. If there is a throttle positioning sensor, it will be a rectangular black piece of plastic held on by two screws if I remember correctly. I am also going off of a carb system, so it could be different. I believe they should be all the way up as far as adjustment.

You may also have a bad switch, whether it is the kill switch or the ignition switch. If you unplug your kill switch, can you still use the key to turn it on and off? If so, then it would be the kill switch. If not, then it could be either, but most likely the key switch.
 

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Disconnected my kill switch as soon as I got it. Hate side hilling and my arm hits it and kills it. And I think Blackcat is right on the money.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes I can still turn it off with the key. If I unplug the kill switch it runs fine no bogging. However if the trottle froze or stuck it should shut off (right) So what does cutting the center wire do, is it an over ride for the safty on trottle? I don't know if I am explaining this right but I thank you all for your help.
 

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I'd check for shorts in the wires up to the kill switch, if none are found replace the kill switch and see where it goes from there. Hopefully that solves your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks, Thehawk789 that will do as long as I can still use the kill switch if needed.

Thanks, to everyone else for their help as well.
 

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cutting the center wire works i've done it on many AC's it a simple cheap fix. the only thing it does it cuts the override you can still kill it but the engine wont kill its self. it works thehawk is knows what he's talking about
 

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Originally posted by 900geek
[br]havent much played with the efis but in a carb,too much play in the cable will kick the safety switches in
that was the problem with my dads cougar, tightened them up and it worked fine
 

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i guess you could just unplug the grey connectors on the carbs too, but if it is EFI im not 100% sure, but i believe it still uses grey plugs on the sensors.

its actually an over-rev protection, and those cheesy plastic deals that hold the throttle lever to the handlebars wear out... causing the problem to get worse.
 

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Yup, it is the throttle lever bushings that are the culprit...that is why the problem seems somewhat random. Pushing down on the lever often creates the problem.
 

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yeah you should only have to replace the two plastic bushings on the pin that goes through the throttle on the handlebar. usually fixes it. better than cutting wires.
 

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yeah.. I just bought a 98 ZR 600 EFI last night and I noticed that problem right away. Figured it was just pushing down on the kill switch wires, my throttle is a bit loose but is fine unless I stand up while riding. That seems to be when I tend to push down.
 
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