All I did was take a knife. I didnt cut them right off at the base of the track thoe. I will snap some pictures this weekend to show where they had to be notched

 

Ok thanks. I was drag racing a few friends on the lake within the last few days and my machine seems to really stutter off the line pulling around 6300rpm until I bark the throttle a few times and then it will finally rev to about 8400rpm. I put on new plug wires and caps, as I was told that could possibly be the problem, but that didn't fix it. Any suggestions on what is causing this would really help, and if you need more info on the sled just let me know! Thanks alot.

 

Originally posted by moto-ski-man
[br]Ok thanks. I was drag racing a few friends on the lake within the last few days and my machine seems to really stutter off the line pulling around 6300rpm until I bark the throttle a few times and then it will finally rev to about 8400rpm. I put on new plug wires and caps, as I was told that could possibly be the problem, but that didn't fix it. Any suggestions on what is causing this would really help, and if you need more info on the sled just let me know! Thanks alot.

I had mine out today in a feild today and that ripsaw comes out of the hole 2x as hard. I re-jetted from 320 to 360 and the sled worked great..come out of the hole at 8000 and then later on it would do the same thing you said..only come out at about 6500..like it fell on its face. I am not sure why...maybe it was to warm for that jetting. It was about +2 outside but I can't see why that would cause it...

 

Well...here is where you have to clip the ripsaw so it clears the heat exchangers. Also probably with any 1.25'' track.
[attachment=20524][attachment=20523]
[attachment=20525]
Also when I was changing my jets today I notice the air hose that runs from both outside parts of the carbs. The hose is long enough to run down and under the carbs. On one side the hose has a cone shape and the other side is just the hose..so I was puzzeled a little bit but then I thought perhaps they are suppose to be connected together so I connected them. Here is the hose I am talking about I am assuming they are suppose to be connected??
(Enlarge the picture to see where I marked it)
[attachment=20530][attachment=20531]

 

only the centre one needs to be connected.

 

Hey guys what is up, nice sleds! I have a '96 xcr440 that has a bone stock engine and I was wondering what the best and most cost effective modification that I can do to get the most performance boost out of this machine. Thanks for your help guys and I hope you get snow! []

 

Check out HSP for a clutch kit...they work really well in these sleds. Thats what the majority of us are running. Are the 96 case reed or piston port kind? If they are case reed you can always get aftermarket V-Fore of Boyseen reeds. I odd person has UFO's in theirs..people say they clean up the throttle responce and give you better midrange, but take sometime to tune properly

 

I believe that it is piston port not case reed. Where do I find the HSP clutch kits I didn't find very much yet on the net. Thanks for the help guys and input is appreciated []

 

www.hotseatperformance.com just follow the menu bar..snow performacnce, polairs, clutch kits. If you wanted to spend some money you could always send your engine away to be ported some, or shave the head if you wanted to. But best bang for your buck is the clutch kit. On the HSP website they have a kit for yours..retails for $208US (CK 440-3)

 

I bought the Polaris 074 belt today which was recomended from what I have read on here, and it seems almost too wide for the primary clutch when it is at the bottom of the sheaves. The belt also sits fairly high on the secondary. I can get alot more top end out of my sled now, but it seems like the clutch engages less harsh now compared to my old one. I don't know if this is normal or not, or if I am supposed to adjust for this belt, but any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

Originally posted by moto-ski-man
[br]I bought the Polaris 074 belt today which was recomended from what I have read on here, and it seems almost too wide for the primary clutch when it is at the bottom of the sheaves. The belt also sits fairly high on the secondary. I can get alot more top end out of my sled now, but it seems like the clutch engages less harsh now compared to my old one. I don't know if this is normal or not, or if I am supposed to adjust for this belt, but any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

If you were running the 3211067 belt, you might have 3 .030" shims under the snap ring? Now that you are using the 3211074, you need 1-.030" shim. Remeber when you change the belt deflection sperate the sleves and push down on the belt to help hold them apart, then adjust the shim accordingly.

 

Ok, my snap ring pliers are not big enough for this snap ring so I will pick some up as soon as possible. When I take the snap ring out will everything pop apart or is there a special method of doing this? Also, why do I need to seperate the sheves while putting in the 1 0.030" shim? Can't I just remove the snap ring and put in the correct shim? This is pretty confusing for me! Thanks for the help.

 

Sorry...I might of made it confusing. Only when you need to change your belt deflection is when you do that, seperate the sheves, sorry. But yes...when you pull your secondary off check to see if there is 3 of thoes shims under the snap ring..if its riding high then there probably is. Yes once that snap ring comes out watch yourself...that helix can pop up at you pretty good. But if you can don't let the helix pop out and remove 2 of the shims..it will be hard cause of the force the helix will have. We all know how hard it can be to put the secondary back together without the tool to hold the helix down. Anything eles you dont understand just let me know. If for some reason it does come out on you see how dirty it is, use breakcleaner or whatever you use to clean it up and put some grease on the shaft and the inside of the secondary that goes onto the shaft. Also..have the primary clutch reshimmed for .010" with the new belt if it is riding high like I think you said still. This belt is a little wider I think than the 067 so thats why you have to do this.

 

hey guys, just bought this 92 xcr 440 with a 500 motor in it, just got it out onight to ride(except for around the yard) and when i had it going maybe 50 it started to bog, is it too rich? please help.

 

Hard to say without knowing more about the sleds history.

If I were to take a stab I would think carb issue.

 

Well I had my sled out today.....on a trailer thoe. I am re-building my primary so I thought since it was a nice day out why not snap some pictures of it...enjoy. *Notice the shine []*[attachment=22059]
[attachment=22060]

 

Hey guys I am just trying to get my sled all straighten away. I bought some new plastic skis so that should be nice. Just a couple of question for the xcr experts. What rear suspension does the '96 440 have, is it the the xtra-10 and it is just not labeled? It doesn't seem to sit high enough, the shocks need to be re-built though [] If is doesn't do you think that it is worth putting a xtra-10 skid in it, I can get my hands on a cheap one if I want. I was really looking into the hsp clutch kit and I was wondering what kind of other adjustments need to be done such as jetting or anything. I was also wondering what plugs I should run, or even if it makes a difference? Do any of you know where I could pick up some used pipes or anyone that still makes them for this sled. Thanks a lot guys I have been ridding since high school but this is the first sled that I have owned myself and I need some help figuring this stuff out. Any other suggestions that you have would be great and all of your help is much appreciated, think snow! [][][]

 

The 96 should sit fairly low. With the clutch kit there is no need to rejet or do any engine changes. You can use either rn2c or br9es. Aaen may still have pipes. Your sled has the xtra 10.
How much do you have your front spring turned up to. How many inches of threads are showing. These sleds came from the delaer with the front springs cranked up quite a bit.

 

The sled is at my parents place at the moment so I can't go out and look but from what I can remember they are pretty cranked, I would say that they definitely need to be rebuilt the guy that I got it from said that he never did it. Would loosening them help steering etc. To take the rear shock off do I need to pull the entire skid or can I just prop it up and take it out. Thanks for all your help guys and if any one has any experience with this sled and know anything that I can do to make it even run better and harder let me know. I want to have a finely tuned older sled that can smoke my buddies newer and high cc sleds on the trail and in the ditches. Thanks
[galleryattach=6659]

 

Nice pictures 440.....those are some big nobs on that track...hang on tight...[]

 

Originally posted by pierbridge
[br]Nice pictures 440.....those are some big nobs on that track...hang on tight...[]

Thats my ripsaw [] Only put 12 miles on this year but I did some dead stops from 5500rpm and whhooohaaa...she hooks up 2x has hard as it did before. I really cannot wait to get to some drag races so the girl can flex its muscles....snow is not looking good. I have never seen such a shitty winter. The weather is going to have to change in the next 2 1/2 weeks before the frist race.

 

Originally posted by gulby
[br]The sled is at my parents place at the moment so I can't go out and look but from what I can remember they are pretty cranked, I would say that they definitely need to be rebuilt the guy that I got it from said that he never did it. Would loosening them help steering etc. To take the rear shock off do I need to pull the entire skid or can I just prop it up and take it out. Thanks for all your help guys and if any one has any experience with this sled and know anything that I can do to make it even run better and harder let me know. I want to have a finely tuned older sled that can smoke my buddies newer and high cc sleds on the trail and in the ditches. Thanks
[galleryattach=6659]

If you are really looking into getting stuff done you can always get your head shaved humm .010-.015 thou of and inch for starters. If you want to go a step further you could always get your cyl ported. Humm...I'm not sure about your shock...you might have to take your skidout.

 

Originally posted by gulby
[br]The sled is at my parents place at the moment so I can't go out and look but from what I can remember they are pretty cranked, I would say that they definitely need to be rebuilt the guy that I got it from said that he never did it. Would loosening them help steering etc. To take the rear shock off do I need to pull the entire skid or can I just prop it up and take it out. Thanks for all your help guys and if any one has any experience with this sled and know anything that I can do to make it even run better and harder let me know. I want to have a finely tuned older sled that can smoke my buddies newer and high cc sleds on the trail and in the ditches. Thanks
[galleryattach=6659]

Depends does it dart or is it hard to steer on hard pack.
If you can get to the top bolt on rear shock then you can take them out with out removing skid.

 

I noticed before that Skip and ZRpilot mentioned that had a slight bog. I told them to adjust their airscews to 2 turns out. Said it helped but they still had it...Change you needle jets from stock (285 P-4) to 159-P4. That should really wake the sled up from a stop when you punch it. I noticed since I changed them when I sit at 5500 and punch it..it used to get this slight bog in it..nothing major but I knew it was there. Now I sit a 5500 and punch it....bog is gone!! You can really notice the difference....just some food for thought XCR 440 guys.

 

When you refer to needle jets, are you talking about the needle in the slide? How much do they cost?