Snowmobile Fanatics banner

Is my fusion 600 running too rich?

11K views 33 replies 10 participants last post by  dconley989  
#1 ·
i just got my fusion 600 this year and ive only put about 200 miles on it so far. one thing i noticed pretty quick is that after ive been riding it for a while and it is warmed up, it takes 3 or 4 pulls to start, and i usually have to give it some throttle. this obviously isnt normal. another thing that leads me to believe it might be running rich is that it seems to load up when going slow or idleing. and getting pretty bad gas mileage. maybe like 8 mpgs? any tips on how to set the screws on my carbs. the sled has 3400 miles and i have no idea if anything has been changed or replaced in the carbs. thanks.
 
#4 ·
Sounds to me like it is rich. Is there a big difference between the elevation at which you ride at and the elevation that the previous owner rode it at?

The 600 in your fusion is a little rich from the factory, I have heard a lot of guys going to smaller main jets, depending on where they are at they are running as small as 390's. Not sure your elevation or what size main jets are in your sled otherwise I could give you a better idea what you need.

How do your plugs look after riding in the midrange? Still wet? Or are they little brown in colour? I have also read about the 600 having a leaner midrange, and needing to have the needle moved to keep the midrange from being to lean if you go to a smaller jet size.
 
#6 ·
Most likely not the problem, but how many miles are on the sled? When compression gets lower, your sled will run richer, and be harder to start when warm.
 
#7 ·
I would first check your main jets if they are factory you can probably get away with going dowm 2 jet sizes depending on elevation as driftpounder said earlier. Run at mid range then pull the plugs chocolate brown good if there white go back up a jet but you also have to play with the piolit jet also. Also see what your air screw is set at.[thumb]
 
#13 ·
TriumphoverU said:
Install
400 main jets
60 pilot jets
.9 air jets
2 turns out from lightly seated on your fuel screw
Put the needles on position 3(middle) also, or else you'll be too lean for long midrange pulls and have a lean bog when you pin the throttle.

Having the give it a little throttle when warm starting is the nature of the beast, have had to since day one on every fusion I have heard about, including my own.

Just if you wanted a reference the stock mains are 420's, what I found to work was the SLP air horn with 2 additional intakes on the dash, 410 mains, and the needle clip in position 3. This completely eliminated my low end bog, improved my gas mileage from 10 to 12 mpg and the plugs are a perfect cardboard brown. The only issue I have found and I have never seen a true fix to it, is if the sled is idling for more than a couple minutes it loads up pretty bad, Triumph's jetting suggestion may cure this but it's never really been a bother to me since I'm only idling that long to let it warm up, a few braps and shes clear.
 
#15 ·
I have a 2008 600HO which I believe has the same carb setup. I was experiancing the same symptoms and adjusting the carbs made a night and day difference.

What I changed
-420 mains down to 370
-Needle from 3rd clip to 2nd clip
-Same pilot setup TOU mentioned

This is on the borderline of running lean but I have EGTs to keep an eye on it,just gives you a idea how rich they come from the factory and how far you can go down with the jets. 6800-7000RPM is its lean spot that you do not want to hold it at to long when you jet down. I would run 390 mains to be safe,mine made a noticable difference in snappyness and mileage.
 
#18 ·
dconley989 said:
i think i will try putting 410s in it this weekend. the sled has the 2 air intakes on the dash. is that stock or do you think it was added? and what does adjusting the needle clip do?
Good plan, the 2 air intakes on the bottom left and right corners in a triangle shape on the dash are stock. The needle controls the mid range, raising the needle increases amount of fuel going in, lowering decreases.
 
#20 ·
dconley989 said:
so assuming everything is stock, if i put the 410s in it should i definetly change my neddle setting to 3 or try just changing the jets and seeing how it runs. and should i do anything else after installing the 410s.
Gut the airbox, seriously it helps with these fusion 600's, also makes it a breeze to get the airbox back in and seated correctly and is completely reversible. I went through with small screwdrivers and lifted each tab holding the airbox halves together until they started the separate then stuck a piece of wood between the halves and did this all the way around until it popped apart. Then remove the funnels/foam from the inside and that funnel on the top of the airbox, now run a bead of rtv black silicone around the whole airbox and stick her back together and let it dry. Seals it up great and is still reversible if you decide to put the funnels/foam back in at a later date. Some people also recommend a strip of duct tape around the whole thing also to ensure a good seal and no under hood heat is making its way in.

Now here is the important part of this "operation". By design the fusions pull air in through the headlight adjuster knob, around the windshield and around the headlight. This is all fine and dandy until you get into powder or you are running behind other sleds on the trail as a ton of snow dust will get sucked in and you don't want that going into your engine or freezing up your carbs. Open the hood and remove the 4 rubber straps holding the windshield/black border in place then remove the black border around the headlight from the outside of the hood. You will see a couple of open slots that are direct shots into your intake and into your carbs if not sealed properly once the airbox is gutted since it no longer has the foam or funnels to keep the snow out. Get some clear silicone caulk/adhesive and carefully run a bead around the whole headlight sealing it up nice and clean since it will then be covered by the headlight border when you put it back on. Black duct tape works great for the other various holes and the headlight adjuster knob.

Now finally the needle setting, once my airbox was gutted from the SLP air horn, I had a slight bog off the line when I punched it. Some told me lean, some told me rich. I finally found a thread on hardcoresledder talking about this and how the fusions have a lean mid range stock, so I simply bumped the clip to #3(middle) which raised the needle and bam my bog was gone.

Any other questions just ask!


PS, if you don't gut your airbox, i'm sure the stock needle position(#2) should be fine unless you experience any bogging issues in the low/mid range.
 
#22 ·
i put the 410 mains in it this weekend and moved the clip on the needles to position 3. the fuel screws were at 1.5 turns and thats where i left them. i went for a 150 mile ride saturday and i still got only maybe 9 mpgs. and i was running regular gas. had no problems with the det and ran awsome, but the loading up when it idles for anytime is bugging me. it seems like it might have got worse after my carb adjustments. i think i will try to gut my airbox sometime, but id rather be riding. has anyone found anything to help with the loading up when idleing?
 
#26 ·
RMK-KING said:
That is not the main jets purpose but it seemed to help on mine, plus gives you better mileage and power.
id listen to the man, he knows his stuff.