#28 on the diagarm. They only cost me $18CDN per 1 jet.
[attachment=25172]

 

Thanks for the pic. Can you install these from the top or do they go in thru the bottom of the carb?

 

They go threw the bottom. You have to remove the carb from the engine, slides/choke/gas/oil/vent all of them. Remove the bottom of the bowl then remove the jet. You will see the peice that the main jet screws into...thats the needle jet. Take a standard size screw drive and push/tap it threw...should only need a light tap and it will fall out. When you goto replace the 285 P4 w/ 159 P4 you will see a small slit in the needle jet. If you look at the bore the needle jet goes into you will see a pin..they have to line up..needle jet can only fit in 1 way. Push it in and then put everything back together....then tell me if you notice a difference in the sled.

 

who recomended the needle jet change? I know mine are still stock, but i don't have this low end bog you guys speak of (knock on wood). It does seem like these sleds are jetted a bit rich down low. I still haven't got off my ass to install my boost bottle yet, i think that will help clean up some of the low end fatness on the sled.

 

[galleryattach=4709][galleryattach=4708][galleryattach=4594][galleryattach=4595][galleryattach=4596]Heres my red rocket
what do ya think old track ,new track?

 

Originally posted by CanadianXCR
[br]who recomended the needle jet change? I know mine are still stock, but i don't have this low end bog you guys speak of (knock on wood). It does seem like these sleds are jetted a bit rich down low. I still haven't got off my ass to install my boost bottle yet, i think that will help clean up some of the low end fatness on the sled.

Its not to clean up low end bog...if you notice when you punch the sled from a dead stop, once it hits the high rpm there may be an almost hesitation out of it. I know it might not seem like it does it but if you were to change them you would see what I mean. The needle jets were recomened by a individual who raced for Polaris back in the day with the particular sled. I have also taken addition information from him for my sled and let me tell you..I thought it was quick since I had it... Its like a whole new machine this year

 

hmmm...i see what you are saying, i don't think i really have smashed the fun flipper from a dead stop before, but i have gotten into it pretty quick and it seems pretty good...problem is i haven't had a chance to get good test riding in this year yet...Now that we have snow i will try that out tomorrow... I hope to install that damn boost bottle soon too so i can see if that makes the throttle any more crisp than it already is..

 

also i forgot to mention does anyone know the meaning of the numbers for needle jets?? i was told years ago but i forget now..Also XCR4403X can you use the stock needle with the different needle jet?

 

yes you can use the stock needle with a different jet.

 

When I say dead stop I mean sit at just under your engagement 5500rpm??? and smash that sucker..when the rpm jumps listen and pay careful attention to how the sled reacts/responds and you might know what I mean. The sled will almost seem to heasitate or kinda dragg it seems, but still pull like a mofo. I know on mine once I changed them I could tell the difference..but before to me it just seemed to be the nature of the beast..I mean it still flew but I could tell that they cleared it up.

 

my 99 xcr 440 gen II runs terrible in temperatures above 20F. it will take forever to hit the powerband and the belt slips a lot. when it cools down just 10 degrees it is a lot better, it will sort of hesitate before it hits the powerband still, but when it does it pulls harder than any 440 i have ever rode. we have cleaned the carbs and exhaust valves and it doesnt seem to help at all. can somebody help me with this?

 

Originally posted by CanadianXCR
[br]haha..what a coincidence, i was just wroking on my brakes tonite as well..no leaks on my end, but i should take a peek at my switch just in case...My problem was that my brake light was staying stuck on, even though the brakes were disengaged...i ended up taking the caliper and pads off and cleaning and lubing the slides for the pads/caliper. I also cleaned and lubed the caliper piston as well. I then spent over an hour flushing and bleeding the brake system, i accidentally got a bit of air in the bugger so it took me forever, thought i would never get that damn air out...Finally got it worked out, started the sled and the light was staying stuck again...Cracked the bleeder to let a bit of fluid out and played with it some more and so for it hasn't come back on, so i am crossing my fingers it is fixed...didn't feel like driving around with the brake light stuck on and confusing the hell out of other riders...BTW its a Magura brake system...

It is most likely your relay switch, my break light also used to get stuck on but its fixed because of that little part.

 

Originally posted by xcr440
[br]What are you running for spring and weights. Could be too heavy of weights.

Let's start out simple with his problems, no jumping to conclusions. How long has it been since you cleaned your VES?

 

Originally posted by XCR4403X
[br]Make sure you use either Champ BR9ES or Ngk R2NC plugs.

No, no no use RN57Ycc Champions. That was the plug that was designed to run in that particular race engine.

 

Originally posted by XCRacer440
[br]

Originally posted by XCR4403X
[br]Make sure you use either Champ BR9ES or Ngk R2NC plugs.

No, no no use RN57Ycc Champions. That was the plug that was designed to run in that particular race engine.

RN57YCC is to be used in the 00 440. Polairs never said anything about having to use them in the 97-98?

 

Originally posted by johnsonxcr
[br]my 99 xcr 440 gen II runs terrible in temperatures above 20F. it will take forever to hit the powerband and the belt slips a lot. when it cools down just 10 degrees it is a lot better, it will sort of hesitate before it hits the powerband still, but when it does it pulls harder than any 440 i have ever rode. we have cleaned the carbs and exhaust valves and it doesnt seem to help at all. can somebody help me with this?

If your VES were cleaned then perhaps you need to rejet the sled? When you cleaned the VES valves did you clean out the tiny hole on the block just above where the valve slides into place, that can get over looked sometimes? What are your main jets in it now? Also, what belt are you running? I'm not sure of which one its suppose to be?

 

I'm just going by what my mechanic told me to spicificly run and only run.

 

Originally posted by XCRacer440
[br]I'm just going by what my mechanic told me to spicificly run and only run.

Yes, I'm not trying to judge your information. I don't see any reason why you could not use that plug in the 97-98...but when the 00 440's were made Polaris I think made a note that they had to use the RN55YCC plug..same with their 600s

 

Originally posted by pierbridge
[br]You guys ROCK!!!!!!!!!![][][]

Just like you said, I almost gave up on it I could not hear the air coming out "rain []" so I topped off the master and pumped her up and it leaked right were you said.

Thank You!

Now where do I find one for $25 Polaris dealers want $66....not a big deal I'll pay it to have my breaks back but if there is one cheaper that would be cool.

And how do I get at it, do I disasemle the break system or remove the oil reservoir not sure which would be easier.

Thanks again XCR4403X and XCR440.[8D]

I lost my brakes at the top of a huge hill on my Ultra because of that part.
A $2.00 brass plug took care of that permanently.
No break lights, but where I ride, it just doesn't matter

 

Originally posted by XCR4403X
If your VES were cleaned then perhaps you need to rejet the sled? When you cleaned the VES valves did you clean out the tiny hole on the block just above where the valve slides into place, that can get over looked sometimes? What are your main jets in it now? Also, what belt are you running? I'm not sure of which one its suppose to be?

i'm not sure if we cleaned that hole, i'll check later and i think my jetting is stock 360 mains 45 pilot, the belt i have on is slightly smaller than stock. when its cold the belt never slips though. i was thinking its the jetting, what do you think i should change it to?

 

Hummm....ok..you can run 340's year round...but still..I run 360s tail riding all year and I don't get a bog. Perhaps check your airscrew settings and turn them no more than 2 turns out. Check and see if that hole I was talking about on the VES is clean and not gummed up...usually a paper clip can be used to clean it out. If you don't have the proper belt you sled will not pull the rpm it should..make sure you are using the proper belt for the sled and that the deflection is 1 1/4''.

 

i'll try adjusting the air screw tomorrow, but i dont know if i can do much of a test run. i wrecked my hood mounts, my friend was coming off the top of a hill and his ski pushed my hood back and bent it all up

 

ok, so i adjusted my air screws so theyre 1 turn out. it seems pretty good, but it still isnt reaching peak rpm like it was before. it will get to 8000 sometimes but usually only around 7500. on the speedometer it gets up to 80-85 and before it would top out at 95. maybe its something with my clutch?

 

Airscrews should be 2 turns out...as far as not hitting peak rpm....if it did it before and now it won't I don't know what to tell ya. Are you sure you are running the proper belt? 91 fuel? RN2C or BR9ES plugs? VES are cleaned? Carbs are cleaned? Humm....maybe take your secondary apart and see what setting the spring is in? Does your seld have stock clutching or aftermarket?

 

the belt isnt the same as stock but the polaris dealer sold it to my dad and said it should work the same or better. i think the only difference is that it has ribs on the back for better cooling. i always run 91 fuel, BR9ES, just cleaned carbs and VES, and all my clutching is stock. i will try having the air screws 2 turns out, but i had it for a little bit at 1 1/2 turns and it was bad, 1 1/4 and it was not as bad but still not good. then at 1 turn out it seems best.
do you think if i replaced the clutch springs with the same ones but new, it would be better? maybe they are worn out?
just a guess, i dont know much about clutching though